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I<\/span>t\u0569\u00a7\u0549\u0082-\u0549\u0084\u00a7s mid afternoon in a mountain village close to the Azerbaijan border and the air is thick with the smoke of a dozen chargrill barbecues. Men are turning giant skewers of chicken and lamb on the coals while their obedient sons fan the flames, dressed in traditional Armenian costume.<\/p>\nHigh above the gorge the sun is pouring down from a cloudless sky and beyond the river bridge there\u0569\u00a7\u0549\u0082-\u0549\u0084\u00a7s dancing: troupes of young men and women, linking arms, kicking their legs and singing in unison as wild music blares out from speakers beneath the chestnut trees.<\/p>\n
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